VESPA PRIMAVERA The Primavera nameplate - meaning “spring” in Italian - has been revived by Vespa for their third generation of modern small frame scooter. Launched in spring 2014 as a 2015 model, the Primavera builds off the small frame success of the (launched 1996) and (launched 2006), with a new generation bearing obvious influence from Vespa’s flagship model. The result is a beautiful new generation of Vespa. The Primavera is now offered globally with a choice of two motors. A smaller 50cc option will be offered in each country, but the specific engine will vary between either a 4-stroke (most countries) or a 2-stroke (where allowed). Accompanying the 50cc will be a larger 125cc or 155cc option. Countries with learner laws favouring 125’s will get the 125cc Primavera (ie.

UK) while elsewhere buyers will be offered a larger 155cc version. In the USA and Canada, Vespa is offering their 50cc 4-stroke and 155cc 4-stroke motor options. In addition to the regular 50 and 150 models, Vespa USA added a Primavera Tourer model in some years (2016, 2018) which gains a windscreen, front and rear luggage racks and a unique leather seat for an extra $400.

As well, Vespa offered a limited “70th anniversary” edition called the Settantesimo for 2016. This edition was offered for both 50cc and 150cc Primavera’s and added a dark brown seat and rear luggage bag, as well as gunmetal finished rims and 70th anniversary logos throughout. This model was available in either Azzurro Metallizzato (Robin’s Egg Blue) or Grigio Pulsar (light grey) for an extra $300 Styling As Vespa’s third generation of modern small frame scooters, the Primavera design continues to mark new ground. In the same way that the served as a stylistic inspiration for the LX series, Vespa’s new 946 design is the clear inspiration for the Primavera. It could easily be argued that the Primavera is a 946 for the masses, as it foregoes frills like ABS, traction control and hand stitching in exchange for an MSRP around half. In contrast to the LX, the new Primavera has a longer, angular design which includes an extra 2” of wheelbase and 4” of total length (69.1” vs. Most notably, the rear end has gone from a short bulge to an elongated and pointed sculpture befitting of a wasp.

It looks faster just parked. Perhaps the best line on the Primavera is the bottom edge of the rear flanks, which slopes downward and flows in the tilted floorboard. In the LX these lines were near horizontal and disjunct. This change alone makes the Primavera look ready to pounce.

The front end of the scooter is also all new. The legshield is more angled back - especially in comparison to the tilted floorboard - which makes the design look sleek. Also present is the stylish triple vent above the front fender which is a clear tie to the 946.

A neat touch up front is the inclusion of LED running lights into the front signals. Similarly, Vespa has added LEDs to the rear lamp which saves a few watts and looks pretty neat. Two other nice changes are the new 5 spoke rims and the more angular shaped exhaust.

Also new is the gauge setup, which is now a more even mixture of analog and digital instrumentation. The speedometer is central and analog, with the smaller details like fuel level, time and odometer now found in the larger digital screen. The overall setup is simpler and more congruous than the previous LX and S series instrumentation. It also adds a helpful trip odometer and an oil warning light. Globally, Vespa is offering the Primavera in 6 color options: light blue, dark blue, red, brown, white and black. Of course you won’t find those descriptions on Vespa’s specs sheets.

In the same order, Vespa is calling these colors Marechiaro Light Blue, Blue Midnight, Dragon Red, Crete Senesi Brown, Montebianco White and Volcano Black. Motors North Americans can select from 50cc 4-stroke and 155cc 4-stroke options, with the 2-stroke 50cc option only offered overseas. The more powerful 155cc option is a 3-valve design which is also available in some overseas markets in smaller bore version (52 mm vs 58 mm) to meet 125cc learner rules there. At 155cc, the larger version of the Primavera is legal on interstate highways in all 50 states, which makes it more practical than a 125cc machine would be.

The motor is the same core engine as that found in Vespa’s high end scooter and a few overseas 2013 models of the LX 150. (North American LX 150’s never received this update). Unlike the 946, this motor in the Primavera lacks traction control, which is just as well since traction control is fairly superfluous in a small scooter and adds to the cost. This recently developed Piaggio motor is a great step forward for the Italian maker, as it incorporates both fuel injection and 3-valves to increase power and fuel economy. The result is a healthy 12.7 HP for the 155cc model (vs. 10.6 ponies for the 125cc), which is up 0.7 HP from the current fuel injected LX and up a full pony compared to older model LX scooters. Thus far the only milage estimates for the Primavera are Piaggio’s optimistic 100-120 mpg claims.

It’s safe to say you’ll never see that without substantial intention, but the Primavera should easily best the 65-75 mpg that the LX generation was capable of in real world conditions. 80 mpg is a good estimate for mixed real world use. Top speed for the Primavera should be an easy 60-65 mph. The LX 150 was claimed at 59 mph, yet it could wander to 60 - 65mph so I wouldn’t be surprised to see the Primavera wandering to 65-70 mph. Besides the larger flagship engine, Vespa is also equipping the Primavera with 4-stroke and 2-stroke 50cc motor options.

North American’s are being offered only the 4-stroke 50, which is similar to the strategy Vespa took with the LX. Indeed, the 50cc 4-stroke motor offering is the same Hi-PER4 motor that is also found in the LX and S 50.

This motor makes a decent 4.6 HP which translates to a reasonable 40mph top speed. The use of this older motor saves quite a bit on the MSRP (about $1000), but it also doesn’t take full advantage of this scooters’ design (i.e. High end frame, suspension, brakes etc), nor does it offer as good of fuel economy as some other fuel injected 50cc scooters. If finances or road rules are constraining you to a 50cc then you’ll still have a great machine, but the 155cc is where this scooter will really come alive. Although the 2-stroke 50cc motor option isn’t coming to North America, this 2-stroke engine has been offered here in other models so a 2-stroke enthusiast could likely bolt one in.

The Primavera 50 2-stroke uses Piaggio’s long running Hi-PER2 motor which was used in the ET2 50 as well as other Piaggio Group products (Piaggio, 2007 Piaggio, Aprilia ). The Hi-PER2 is a more powerful motor than the Hi-PER4 (5.1 HP vs. 4.6 HP) but the Hi-PER4 is the better choice for most because it’s a longer lasting motor with lower emissions, quieter performance and better fuel economy. Brakes / Suspension / Handling With the Primavera, Vespa has made substantial improvements to the three handling weakness of their previous small frame scooters: high seat height, short wheelbase and small wheels. The Primavera shaves a small but appreciated 0.3” off the seat height of the old LX, which in conjunction with the extra 2” of wheelbase should improve high speed handling. This isn’t an issue with the slower 50cc models, but bumpy corners at 60mph were a bit unnerving on the LX. The Primavera should fair better in this regard.

Also benefitting its’ handling is an upsized rear wheel. The front wheel remains at 11” in the Primavera with the same 110/70 rubber, while the rear wheel gains an inch of diameter to join the front at 11”. In addition to improving tire life, this should deliver a little extra stability at speed. The larger rim also enables a move to a larger rear drum brake. The Primavera employs a 140mm rear drum brake, which is a substantial improvement over the 110mm rear brake found in previous small frame Vespa’s. If you’re really after good brakes though, Vespa’s similar model includes standard ABS.

Storage & Convenience Vespa’s have always been practical - aside from the storage-free 946 - and the Primavera continues to take steps forward in this regard. This new Vespa incorporates a glove box of similar size as the previous generation but it’s been made more usable with the addition of half walls that avoid the challenge of quickly shutting the door before your stuff falls out. Rear storage is also increased by 16% to 16.6 liters (4.4 gallons) so now even XL full face helmets should fit with ease. A number of other appreciated conveniences carry over from Vespa’s older models.

These include push to cancel blinkers, a microchipped key theft deterrent system, a locking steering column (also to foil thieves). Comparison Unlike most scooters, there is really no comparing to a Vespa except for other Vespa’s. Prospective Primavera buyers should have a look at the Sprint, which is just a styling variation of the same core model but with standard ABS. Buyers may also want to consider a discontinued Vespa if they find a deal. There are quite a few Vespa inspired scooters out there, but none of them match a real Vespa in design quality (i.e.

Real chrome, metal body). In the 50cc segment, Honda offers the, while Yamaha offers the. Both cost much less, but they also cost much less to make. That’s not to say they aren’t great scooters. Indeed both Yamaha and Honda make outstanding reliable machines. They just aren’t the timeless work of art that a Vespa is. Other more affordable options are Kymco’s and machines.

All of these are good machines. Enthusiasts will be better served with the Vespa, while buyers looking for an affordable commuter scooter are better off buying something costing less.

The larger Primavera 155 really only competes with Kymco’s now that Yamaha has discontinued the - and even that comparison is a stretch as these machines land at opposite ends of the pricing spectrum. The Like 200 (which is actually 163cc) lags the Primavera in technology and thus is likely slower in addition to being more fuel hungry. At $2699, the Like 200 makes it tough for non-enthusiasts to justify a Vespa, but for buyers who are interested in more than just basic transportation the Primavera is the more compelling machine. The 2015 Primavera lists for $3599 (50cc) or $4899 (155cc), while in Canada the 2015 MSRP is $3895 / $5095 (50cc/155cc). If you’re reading this, you probably already know if a Vespa is for you.

If you can afford a Vespa then go for it. Don’t pass on what you love to save a little money. You’ll never regret spending a bit more for a machine this nice. However if you’re simply after a frugal way to get around then look at the Japanese and Taiwan makers. Browse Primavera Owner Reviews - Add Your Review Pros:. Great fuel injected motor.

All metal construction. Great style Cons:. Expensive.

Air cooled. Carburated (50cc) Links: - Essential for the DIY mechanic - Visit the forum on this site to chat about this scoot. Lots of knowledgeable Vespa owners here.

Hi, Karatejohnny there are few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound?

If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it peak out? Is it loud, or very quite the symptoms can help decide what to try. When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for: 1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM. Open air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound.

Acts like it's running out of gas. ( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.) 3.

Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power. Slow to take off. Same as plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop.

Fouled spark plug- backfire. If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most hondas have belts). On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin.

If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you 'OVERFILL' the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil. If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel). Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water!

Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes.

On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed. Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets.

The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet. Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water. Drain your carb once in awhile! Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.

On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to crack open, to get full rpm. 'WARNING' too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can 'MELT' 24. Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go. Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. Common of all types to have the whole muffler plug. When you have the muffler off, is it heavy?

Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged? Check the exhaust port on the cylinder. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea.

With a thin film of carbon. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. Compare to another bike. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming. For more information about your question and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below.

Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need.

1 Answer SOURCE: My bike started doing the same thing. I pulled the carbs put new kits in them and it still does the same thing. It does not seem like a spark issue because the fuel consumption would not be this bad, but the floats looked good.

The needle valves and seats are new. I am not sure what to think at this point. I even replaced the intake manifolds and flushed my fuel system. It starts good initially. It is almost like the fuel pump is pushing to much pressure and over coming the needle valve. Has anyone seen this before? Thanks, Posted on Aug 07, 2009.

105 Answers SOURCE: hello, sounds like you need to set floats in carb, if you have already done that, buy new floats, sounds like one or more of your floats are bad, when you cleaned carbs, did you check and see if any gas was inside the floats, sometimes they will get a pinhole in them, then they will fill with a little gas, and they wont turn gas off, because they cant float in the gas, the carbs are letting gas run through intake down into motor, always turn gas off when not riding your bike that might help a little, Posted on Feb 01, 2010. Hi, Koppi if your bike has been sitting idle for weeks, months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future use a fuel stabilizer before putting your bike in storage for the winter. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper 'LOAD' test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.

Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. Of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, 'WARNING' do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a 'CARB DIP' or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air 7.

Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Parts fiche Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at May 20, 2018. Hi, Saleh that all depends on your current muffler if it's a stock OEM muffler that is in excellent condition then you would have to seek the advice of a muffler expert to fabricate something for you but if it has rusted holes or has a broken baffle or you have an aftermarket performance muffler installed then a new OEM muffler would quiet down the offending noise.

For more information about your question and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Apr 04, 2017.

Hi, Karatejohnny there are few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound? If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it peak out? Is it loud, or very quite the symptoms can help decide what to try.

When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for: 1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM. Open air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound. Acts like it's running out of gas.

( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.) 3. Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power.

Slow to take off. Same as plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop. Fouled spark plug- backfire.

If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most hondas have belts). On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin. If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you 'OVERFILL' the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil.

If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel). Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water! Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes. On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed.

Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets. The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet.

Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water. Drain your carb once in awhile!

Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.

Vespa et4 for sale

On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to crack open, to get full rpm. 'WARNING' too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can 'MELT' 24. Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go.

Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. Common of all types to have the whole muffler plug.

When you have the muffler off, is it heavy? Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged? Check the exhaust port on the cylinder. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea.

With a thin film of carbon. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. Compare to another bike. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming.

For more information about your question and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at May 20, 2017. Hi, Juan if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. Or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be 'PROPERLY' cleaned and reassembled 'CORRECTLY' before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance.

If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: 'TIP' if your engine 'BOGS' you're not getting enough fuel. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.

1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet. If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch.

When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

2003 Vespa Et4

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Dec 16, 2017.